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Where Can I Buy A Duffle Coat
Original Montgomery is the oldest surviving company chosen by the British admiralty in the early 1890`s to make the first duffle coats.The duffle was designed to keep out the worst of weather whilst not restricting the movement of sailors.This first fabric was similar to our current boiled wool - the only difference was the weight - the original was nearly twice as heavy.
where can i buy a duffle coat
The iconic duffle coat is a fashion staple. From humble naval roots to modern day classic, duffle coats have long been regarded for their style, warmth and practicality. As the oldest duffel coat maker in the world, we have a long heritage of quality and style, a heritage that can be felt in each and every coat we make.
Like many iconic fashions, the duffle coat was created by no single individual, and no designer can lay claim to it. Instead, the modern duffle coat forms part of the rich history and culture of British sailors and fishermen. This maritime link extends into military history too, the coats having been worn by the Royal Navy in cold northern latitudes. Loose fit, large buttons or toggles that can be fastened and unfastened whilst wearing gloves and a large wide hood were all created for comfort and ease at sea and in port. Although the duffle coat will always retain its bond to the sea, it has come a long way. These days, duffle coats are found on the city streets and at fashion shows as often as among boats and sails.
These warm and functional single-breasted duffle coats have been designed to protect against the cold winds of the northern seas, and this makes them more than suitable for any climate. If you appreciate comfort, warmth and style, then the duffle coat will not disappoint you. Save time by ordering your duffle coat online and gain access to the finest international manufacturers at excellent prices.
A duffel coat (also duffle coat) is a coat made from duffel cloth, designed with toggle-and-rope fastenings, patched pockets and a large hood. The name derives from Duffel, a town in the province of Antwerp in Belgium where the manufacturing process of this kind of fabric, a coarse, thick, woolen cloth originated.[1] Duffel bags were originally made from the same material.
As the hood and toggle fastenings from Polish frocks proved popular, the frock spread across Europe by the 1850s. By 1890 a less sophisticated version was being supplied to the British Royal Navy, from various manufacturers. During World War II all British troops wore the coat, among them Field Marshal Sir Bernard Montgomery and Lieutenant-Colonel Sir David Sterling. After the war, the coats became available in England as government surplus stock and became popular, especially with students. In countries freed by British troops from Nazi-German occupation, wearing the coat also meant a tribute to all troopers that fought in the war and a statement to civilian freedom.
The large toggles and long ropes from the army coats were designed to enable easily fastening and unfastening while wearing gloves in cold weather. Current designs often feature imitation plastic buffalo horn. The original hood was oversized to allow room for a Naval cap. Early versions of the coat were knee-length but later ones were shorter.
Toggle-and-rope fastenings are known since ancient times, among others in China. The Duffel cloth has been manufactured since about the 1450's in Belgium and since the 1550s in The Netherlands (Leiden).The initial influence of what became the duffel coat, might have been the hooded Polish military frock coat, which was developed in the 1820s. It had the unusual features of a toggle closure and an integrated hood,[2] and by 1850 had spread through Europe.[3] In the 1850s, British outerwear manufacturer John Partridge developed the first version of the duffle coat.[4]
In the 1890s the British Admiralty purchased the coat in quantity for the Royal Navy from multiple manufacturers,[5] where it was referred to as the "convoy coat".[6] The navy issued a camel-coloured variant during World War I,[citation needed] most probably also made from Melton wool.
Large post-war stocks of low-cost military surplus coats turned the duffel into a ubiquitous item of British civilian clothing in the 1950s and 1960s, especially among students. The firm Gloverall purchased large quantities, and in 1954 started producing their own version using leather fastenings and buffalo horn toggles with a double-faced check lining, and many other modern versions copy some or all of those features.[9]
A few years later, the Royal British Navy was searching for a hard-wearing, sailor-proof coat, and so the British Admiralty commissioned the duffle coat, which turned out to be a great success and was after that worn on military ships around the world.
After the coat had reached the peak of its popularity, it never came close to the same level of success again. You will still see duffle coats on the street today, even though these models are often fashion interpretations of the original, far from the real thing.
Since the 20th century, a duffle coat is made of a heavy, coarse woolen fabric. It features a roomy box-cut with a hood, a square shoulder yoke, and large patch pockets with hemp rope and wooden toggle closures.
If you look at the picture of Monty, you can see that the coat has a thick nap similar to the Casentino cloth. I think this was simply an effect that came with the age of the woolen fabric since new duffle coats did seem to have it.
In the early days of the naval duffle coat, the garment was rather spartan. If you look at the old pictures, you can see how overwhelming these coats were in size. Especially the smaller sailors look a bit lost in such a huge garment. At the time of its introduction, the crew still had to climb rigging, and so they needed to be able to move in their coats, hence the wide cut. However, at the same time, it was difficult to keep the body warm with so many open holes and so some sailors would tie the duffle coat to their body with a rope or add cord to the inside of their hood allowing them to achieve a tight fit around their face.
After the Admirals in charge had received some feedback about the coat, some design changes were made. The duffle was cut more narrowly with a straight seam down the front with a generous overlap. Shoulders were reinforced with another layer of cloth and studs were attached to the hood, allowing sailors to adjust better it. Overall, it looked much more like it does today.
Regarding coat length, the original duffle coats were rather short, just about as long as a peacoat. During WWII, the length increased to about knee length or above and today you will find most coats to be somewhere in between.
Traditionally, the duffle coat was worn on top of uniforms and even today, it is worn a bit more roomy that other overcoats. Although it was combined in the fifties with a variety of suits and sport coat outfits, it is decidedly more suited to casual outfits in tweed, thornproof, Saxony, etc., rather than superfine worsteds. Needless to say, never wear it with a tuxedo unless, like Jean Cocteau, you consider this coat to be your universal overcoat.
It also pairs well with jeans, chinos and corduroys as well as tennis sweaters or other heavy knit wear. Regarding footwear, boots or brogues are better than plain toe oxfords and many people even combine it with sneakers. If you decide to buy a duffle coat in an intense color such as red or yellow, try to tone down the rest of your outfit since you are already making a bold statement. Overall, I would recommend it for all things casual and consider it improper with anything business or evening related.
Over its existence, millions of duffle coats have been produced, and there are still plenty of manufacturers who offer duffle coats or their particular spin on it. For you, that means a wide range of choices is available between vintage, new, and bespoke. However, at the same time, this means that there is a lot to choose from and in the following section I will try to help find the duffle coat that is right for you.
Another manufacturer that provides 100% Loden duffle coats is Schneiders Salzburg from Austria. In the US, they are not readily available, but in Europe they are widely available in haberdasheries. If you want a duffle coat with flap, LL Bean offers an 18oz version in wool and if you live in Germany, you should consider Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg, who have been offering this classic in various colors for years.
Thanks for this article. I own a Gloverall (the 10% PA version) and although its fit is perfectly wide and comfortable, I am not impressed by the quality at all. Pilling, flaps coming loose etc.Also, there is a practical reason why a duffle coat is not ideal with a suit. The check on the inner of a Gloverall is just the underside of the cloth. There is no lining at all, which means the coarse cloth clings to your suit when you take it on or off.
I have owned two duffel coats, both gifts made in England. The first had horn toggles, and I wore it regularly during the cold weather seasons. Unfortunately, l did not pack it away properly one year and it became moldy and moth-eaten. The second had wooden toggles, and the hood was detachable, which I found very convenient. Both were substantial and warm, and one had to stand in a downpour for some time before the coat would start to feel damp inside. Of course the weight increased exponentially the longer the coat was in the rain. I gave it away when I moved to a warmer climate and a smaller home. Great cold-weather coats, and definitely a unique style statement.
These were ideal for wearing over a suit for school activities and trips, without being too formal. As we got older, most of us replaced our dufflecoats with the more stylish navy trance coats with a zip in liner, even if they were not as warm.
I am not a fan of the coat outside the landscape and will not wear it in the city, but over the last years, i have seen more and more again, even worn by younger people. So, perhaps we can expect an revival. 041b061a72